I’ve known Kathy since our families lived in Italy in the 1970s. [See My Friend Alan Shaw]. Since both of us lost our spouses, we’ve stayed in touch, including a visit to Glacier National Park in Montana in 2017. [See Glacier National Park]. Recently, we started looking for another adventure, and Kathy mentioned she was interested in learning more about the Panama Canal. After talking it over, we decided to book a Road Scholar trip for March 2025. This post is a brief summary of that adventure.
The title of this post, a man, a plan, a canal, panama, is a well-known example of a palindrome, a word or phrase that reads the same forwards and backwards. Some believe the “man” in question is Teddy Roosevelt. To me, it brings to mind the debate over Neil Armstrong’s famous moon landing words: did he say, “a man” or “mankind”? In the end, it doesn’t really matter. Like the moon landing, the completion of the Panama Canal in 1914 was the result of the hard work of tens of thousands of men and women.
Upon our arrival in Panama, we were immediately struck by its skyline punctuated by gleaming skyscrapers. The city buzzed with energy as our Uber driver maneuvered through the traffic. Yet just beyond the polished surface, we caught glimpses of the city’s layered character: colorful colonial facades peeking out from historic districts and older neighborhoods reflecting day-to-day life. All of this and the backdrop of dense rainforest reminding us that we were in a place where nature and modern life exist side by side. Exiting the highway we arrived at our hotel which was located in a quiet, lush setting away from the noise of the city.
Brief History of the Canal
The Panama Canal, a vital waterway connecting the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, was first attempted by the French in the 1880s but failed due to engineering challenges and disease. The U.S. took over the project in 1904, completing the canal in 1914 after significant improvements and medical advances. It remained under U.S. control until 1999, when it was handed over to Panama. Today, it is a key global trade route. It’s been in the news recently as our current president believes the U.S. should have greater control over the Panama Canal, citing “national and economic security concerns.” Our guides were careful in responding to this delicate situation, but their bottom line was “this isn’t going to happen!”
In our Road Scholar material was a booklet by Susan M. Harp describing the building of the canal in great detail. I thought this simple description of the locks was the best I’ve seen.
We Transit The Canal
The Pacific Queen was waiting for us early in the morning, ready to take us on our canal adventure. This 119-foot Norwegian-built cruiser can accommodate up to 250 passengers, but with our relatively small group of 49, there was plenty of space to explore all three decks and enjoy unobstructed views as we traveled through the canal. The cost to traverse the Panama Canal varies widely depending on the vessel’s size and type, from a few thousand dollars for smaller yachts to several hundred thousand for large cargo ships. We shared the locks with the cargo ship MPV Thalia, registered in Portugal. It was fascinating to see our massive lock-mate up close. We entered the canal from the Pacific side and exited on the Atlantic, traveling in the opposite direction of Ms. Harp’s diagram above.
We had a canal expert on board who used the speaker system to share fascinating technical and historical information, as well as to point out sites of interest during our transit. As we approached the canal entrance, a “pilot” also came aboard. The Panama Canal Authority (ACP) assigns a canal pilot to guide every vessel through the canal, including large commercial ships and even U.S. nuclear submarines. During the transit, the ship’s captain relinquishes control of the vessel to the canal pilot.
We enter the first of the two Miraflores locks on the Pacific end of the canal, sharing the lock with the MPV Thalia.
After we are safely into the lock, it closes.
It took us approximately 10 hours to travel the entire 50 miles of the canal from Balboa on the Pacific coast to Colon on the Atlantic. According to Britannica, “Ships sailing between the east and west coasts of the United States, which otherwise would be obliged to round Cape Horn in South America, shorten their voyage by about 8,000 nautical miles (15,000 km) by using the canal.” This translates into savings of days, even weeks, on voyages between the Atlantic and Pacific oceans.
Although the canal was the “centerpiece” of this trip, there was much more to see.
Other Points of Interest
Casco Viejo
We took a walking tour of the historic district, Casco Viejo, a UNESCO World Heritage Site dating back to the 1670s. The narrow streets are lined with colorful buildings showcasing a blend of Spanish, French, and early American architectural styles. Although not quite as hilly, the area reminded me of Old San Juan, Puerto Rico, which predates Casco Viejo by about a hundred years. During our walk, we spent a couple of hours exploring the Panama Canal Museum. We wrapped up the tour with lunch at a local restaurant. In the photo on the left, can you see the lady smiling down at me? In the photo on the right, notice the juxtaposition of the old in the foreground with the new in the distance.
Ft. San Lorenzo
We visited Ft. Lorenzo very near the the Atlantic entry to the canal, overlooking the Chagres river. After a picnic lunch we had time to explore.
As described by anywhere.com, “the Spanish ruins date back to the 1700s, but the original fort was built in 1595. Set along a massive cliff near the mouth of the Río Chagres, San Lorenzo was meant to secure trade routes and stave of pirates along Panama’s Caribbean coast. Ironically, the fort was attacked almost continually after its completion. San Lorenzo was first attacked by English pirate Sir Francis Drake in 1596 and then again by Sir Henry Morgan in 1671. Morgan destroyed the wooden fort and went on to cross the isthmus and sack Panama City. San Lorenzo was rebuilt with stone in 1680, but was again destroyed by the British admiral Edward Vernon in 1740. It was rebuilt yet again in 1768 and had fortifications added to it in 1779.” With all that sacking and rebuilding, I found it amazing there was something still standing for us to see in 2025!
Indigenous Village
After boarding several small motorized boats we traveled up the Chagres River to a remote village in the rainforest where the Emberá people still practice traditions from a time before the Spanish colonized the region. We learned of their way of life, culture, and handicraft traditions. They also entertained us with interpretive dances.
We were served a delicious meal of fish and plantains, wrapped in a large green leaf, so no utensils needed! Many of the meals we had while in Panama included plantains. Living in Tampa, where Spanish and Cuban cultures blend, plantains are everywhere. And I love them. But I noticed something interesting when I visited Panama. The plantains there are cooked differently from the ones in Tampa. In Panama, they’re typically hard and crunchy, while in Tampa, they’re more soft and gooey. Same fruit, different textures, and a whole different experience.
Gamboa Rainforest
We spent one night at the Gamboa Rainforest Resort. Stepping out onto my balcony that morning I saw the sun rising over the Chagres River.
After breakfast we took a nature walk in the area. Two creatures I had hoped to see while in Panama were a toucan and a sloth. I did catch a glimpse of a pair of toucans flying overhead in the rainforest, though I wasn’t quick enough with the camera and they weren’t quite close enough for a good snapshot. The sloths, however, were completely elusive; not a single one in sight! To make up for it, I bought a sloth carving in the Emberá village, handmade from the cocobolo tree by a local craftsman. Weeks later, a card arrived from Kathy with the message: “Thinking of you and sending you a smile! A smile we didn’t get from a Panamanian sloth!!!” Each a reminder of our week in Panama.
